Yes, you can lay laminate flooring over existing floorboards in most Australian homes — but only if the boards are sound, level and dry. Done right, it’s one of the cleaner DIY-friendly upgrades you can make. Done wrong, it’ll click apart at the joints, squeak underfoot, or trap moisture against the timber below. Here’s how to check the subfloor, pick the underlay, and avoid the mistakes we see come back through our Sydney and Brisbane showrooms.
The short answer
Laminate is a floating floor — the planks click together and sit on top of the subfloor rather than being nailed or glued down. That makes existing floorboards a perfectly acceptable subfloor, provided the boards are flat, fixed, and not hiding a moisture problem underneath. You don’t need to rip the boards up first. You do need to do five quick checks before the first plank goes down.
1. Check the boards are structurally sound
Walk the room. Anything that creaks, bounces, or moves underfoot needs to be screwed back down into the joists before you lay anything on top. Loose boards will telegraph through the laminate within months and the click joints will start to separate. Replace any boards that are split, cupped, or rotten. Punch any proud nail heads below the surface so they don’t push up through the underlay.
2. Check the floor is level
Laminate is unforgiving on undulating subfloors. The rule of thumb we work to is no more than 3 mm of variation over a 2 metre span. Lay a long straight edge or a 2 m level across the room in several directions and look for gaps underneath. Sand down high spots; fill low spots with a self-levelling compound rated for timber. Skip this step and the plank joints will flex every time someone walks across them, and that’s how a click-lock floor fails.
3. Check the height clearance
Laminate planks are usually 8-12 mm thick, plus 2-3 mm of underlay on top of the existing floorboards. That’s roughly 10-15 mm of added height. Open every door in the room before you start. If the door drags on the new floor, you’ll need to take it off its hinges and trim the bottom — easier to plan for now than discover halfway through the install. Check the skirting boards too: most installers undercut the architraves rather than lift the skirtings, which gives the planks somewhere to tuck under.
4. Use the right underlay
Underlay does three jobs over floorboards: it evens out tiny surface imperfections, dampens sound, and gives the click joints something to bed into. Most quality laminate planks come with an attached IXPE or foam underlay already, in which case you don’t lay another one — doubling up makes the floor too soft and the joints will fail. If your laminate doesn’t have an attached pad, a 2-3 mm acoustic foam underlay is the standard pick. Over timber boards, you generally don’t need a moisture barrier the way you would over concrete. We’ve covered the choice in more detail in our guide to underlay for vinyl and laminate flooring.
5. Leave an expansion gap
Laminate expands and contracts with humidity. You need a 10-12 mm gap around the entire perimeter of the room — against walls, around door frames, around any fixed cabinetry, and at the threshold to the next room. The skirting boards or scotia trim cover the gap once the floor is laid. Skip the gap and the planks have nowhere to go when summer humidity hits, which is when you get peaking joints and bowed boards. The same principle applies to most floating floors — there’s a fuller breakdown in our expansion gap guide.
When you shouldn’t lay laminate over floorboards
Three situations where we’d steer you away from this approach:
- Wet zones. Bathrooms, laundries and any room that floods semi-regularly. Laminate is moisture-tolerant, not waterproof. For those rooms, hybrid or SPC is the safer call — see our guide to waterproof flooring options.
- Springy or undersized joists. If the floor noticeably deflects when you walk on it, the joists need attention before any new flooring goes on top. Adding laminate won’t fix the bounce.
- Floorboards with active borer or rot. Cover-ups don’t fix moisture or pest issues — they hide them until the damage is much worse.
A note on click systems
Most modern laminate uses either a 5G or 2G click joint. Over an existing timber subfloor, 5G is a bit more forgiving for DIYers because the short edge drops in vertically rather than needing to be angled and tapped. If you’re choosing between products, our 5G and 2G click systems explainer covers the practical difference.
The bottom line
Laminate over floorboards is a sound choice for most living areas, hallways and bedrooms in Australian homes. Spend the time on subfloor prep — sound, level, dry — and the laminate itself goes down in a weekend. If you’re not sure whether your existing boards are up to it, bring a few photos into one of our showrooms and we’ll talk you through what to look for before you commit to a product.
Ready to shop? Browse our full laminate flooring range online, or drop into our Sydney or Brisbane showroom to see the range in person.